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Transport in Essaouira: The Authentic Guide to Navigating the Wind City
I want to talk to you about Essaouira, but not about its postcard landscapes. I want to talk about its ground those sandy, stone alleyways where the city’s true choreography plays out. I remember my first arrival, on a wildly windy evening. The light was golden, the air smelled of salt and thuya wood. And amidst this beauty, a very practical question: how on earth do I get around here? Unlike Agadir and its wide avenues, Essaouira envelops you in its labyrinth. Cars are strangers here; the rhythm is dictated by footsteps and hooves. After spending seasons there, I understood that getting around here means accepting to slow down. Here’s how to embrace that rhythm without wasting your time.
Understanding the Essence of Essaouira: A Medina, A Port, A Long Beach
Essaouira is not spread out; it’s concentric. Everything revolves around three intimately connected yet distinct poles:
- The Medina (UNESCO-listed): A pedestrian labyrinth. Here, only donkeys, carts, and a few motorbikes dare to venture. Your hotel is probably here.
- The Fishing Port & The Skala: At the northern tip of the medina. This is the beating heart, noisy and colorful, reachable in a 10-minute walk from anywhere in the old town.
- The Beach and Seafront (Bordj): A long stretch of sand south of the ramparts. The resort hotels and modern villas are here. This is where the wind, the real one, the famous Alizé, shows its power.
Key Distances to Visualize:
- From Bab Doukkala (west gate) to the Port Skala: 800 meters on foot. A 12-minute stroll.
- From the medina to the southern end of the beach (near surf clubs): 2.5 km. A good half-hour walk in the sand or along the road.
- From the CTM bus station to Place Moulay Hassan (medina entrance): 1.2 km. A taxi is welcome, especially with luggage.
The trap? Believing everything is right next door. The medina, yes, is compact. But getting from the bus station to your riad with a suitcase on uneven cobblestones, or going to a kitesurf lesson at the other end of the beach, are two different expeditions.
The Little Blue Taxis: Small but Powerful
In Essaouira, taxis are navy blue. They are tiny (often aging Fiat Unos) and part of the scenery.
The Golden Rule: The Urban Flat Rate.
Forget the meter. Here, for any trip within the city (medina, beach, bus station, surrounding areas like Diabat), a single fixed rate applies. During the day, it’s 7 dirhams per person. After 8:00 PM, it rises to 8.50 dirhams. It’s non-negotiable and everyone knows it.
How It Works:
- Hail a taxi (they are numerous near the medina gates).
- State your destination. Example: “To the port, please.”
- Get in. He will potentially pick up other passengers along the way going in the same direction, and each will pay their share. This is the norm.
- Pay 7 DH when you get out.
The Important Trick:
If you are a group of 3 or 4 and you do not want to share the taxi, say so right from the start: “For me alone / for all of us” and indicate your group. In this case, you will pay 7 DH x the number of seats occupied (e.g., 21 DH for 3 people). The driver will not pick up other customers.
They Don’t Go Everywhere:
These taxis do not leave Essaouira. To go to surrounding villages (Ida Ougourd, Tafedna) or the airport, you need something else.
Grand Taxis (4x4s and Minibuses): For the Airport and Villages
Here, no old Mercedes. In Essaouira, “grand taxis” are often white Toyota 4x4s or minibuses. They wait at a specific spot: on Avenue de l’Istiqlal, right across from the main medina entrance (Bab Doukkala).
Their Missions:
- Fixed routes to villages: Heading south to Sidi Kaouki (the surf/windsurf spot), Tafedna, etc. They leave once full.
- The Airport: This is their most common ride for tourists. Essaouira Airport (ESU) is 15 km south, in the middle of nowhere.
The Airport Case – The Inevitable Negotiation:
There is no official shuttle. Upon exiting the airport, a few white 4x4s are waiting. This is negotiation time.
- Standard price for the entire vehicle (“louer“): between 150 and 200 dirhams. This is the target price.
- Foolproof trick: Don’t rush to the first driver. Walk calmly to the second one. The first might have quoted you 250 DH. Ask the second: “Medina, how much?” He’ll say 200. Go back to the first: “I’m being offered 200 over there.” You’ll get the real price. Pay upon arrival.
The Carriage (“Koutchi”): Much More Than a Tourist Trap
You see them in all the photos: brightly colored carriages stationed near the port. Many think it’s a superficial attraction. Think again.
When Taking a Carriage Makes Sense:
- For a relaxing panoramic tour: Going around the outer ramparts, along the beach to the borj, without getting tired. Ideal in the evening.
- For a trip with light luggage: From Place Moulay Hassan to your riad deep in the medina, if you don’t want to drag your suitcase over the cobblestones.
- For a romantic or family outing: Kids love it, the pace is peaceful.
How Much Does It Cost?
You must negotiate and agree on a price for the ride AND on the duration. A classic ramparts tour (30-45 min) should be negotiated between 80 and 120 DH for the entire carriage (up to 4-5 people). Set the terms clearly before getting in.
Walking: The Only Real Way to Discover It
Essaouira is a walking city. It’s obvious, but you have to fully accept it.
- In the Medina: Get lost. It’s flat, safe, and every street leads to a square, a workshop, or a café. Maps are useless. Your sense of direction and a quiet curiosity are your best guides.
- Along the Beach: The walk on the hard sand is magnificent, but the wind can be exhausting. Bring a sweater, even in summer. To go faster, walk on the paved road below (Avenue Mohammed V).
- The Panoramic Coast: North of the port, a path follows the wild coast towards the marine cemetery and the Purpuraire Islands. Sublime at sunset. Allow 1.5 hours round trip.
Bike, Scooter & Other Rentals
- Bike: Rentals offer hybrid bikes for about 50-80 DH/day. Excellent for going to Diabat (deserted village to the south, 4km) or cycling along the beach. Beware of headwinds!
- Scooter/Motorbike: For the more adventurous. International license required. Allows you to go to Sidi Kaouki (20km) independently. ~250 DH/day. Negotiate insurance.
- Local Buses: A minimal network exists, but it’s designed for suburban residents. Not very useful for a visitor.
Questions Everyone Asks (FAQ)
“I’m coming from the CTM bus station with my suitcase. What do I do?”
Take a little blue taxi right in front of the station. Say “Place Moulay Hassan” or the name of your riad if it’s well-known. Price: 7 DH. He will drop you as close as possible to the pedestrian entrance.
“How do I get to Sidi Kaouki for the day?”
Two economical options:
- Grand taxi (minibus) from Avenue de l’Istiqlal. Wait for it to fill up. ~15-20 DH per person.
- CTM Bus: There are 2-3 buses per day. More comfortable, ~25 DH. Buy the ticket in advance at the station.
“Is there Uber?”
No. Absolutely not. The simple, flat-rate blue taxi system makes the app unnecessary.
“I’m looking for a kitesurf lesson; they tell me it’s ‘at the beach.’ Where exactly?”
All kite and windsurf activity is concentrated south of the medina, past the borj (the old fortress), on a stretch of beach called “Hay Riad Beach” or simply “the kitespot.” A blue taxi will take you there for 7 DH from the medina.
“Is it safe to walk alone in the medina at night?”
Yes, remarkably so. Essaouira is peaceful. The alleyways are lively until late, filled with families and tourists. Stay on the lit, frequented arteries, like the one leading from Place Moulay Hassan to the port. Have the name and phone number of your riad on you.
“What is visitors’ number one transport mistake?”
Trying to over-optimize and walk from the bus station to their riad to “save” 7 DH. With a suitcase on uneven cobbles, under the sun or in the wind, it’s a grueling ordeal that ruins your first impression. The 7 DH blue taxi is the best investment of your stay.
My Ideal Getting-Around Plan for Essaouira
- For daily trips in the city: Little blue taxi. 7 DH, simple, effective.
- For the airport: Grand taxi (4×4) negotiated at 150-180 DH for the vehicle.
- For an excursion to Sidi Kaouki: Shared grand taxi on the way there, and I ask the owner of the café where I have lunch to call one for my return.
- To explore the medina and its immediate surroundings: Walking, period.
- For a special moment at the end of the day: Carriage for a tour of the ramparts at sunset (100 DH well-negotiated).
- For a day of autonomy towards Diabat: Bike rented for the day.
Essaouira is not visited, it is felt. And to feel it, you must adopt its slowness. Leave the car far away, forget the stress of running meters, pay your 7-dirham taxi fare with a smile, and lose your afternoons in the blue and white maze. Here, the journey truly begins when you slow down.
